First, some ground rules. I don't do quantities. You'll just have to suss it out for yourself. In forty years of cooking, I have rarely, if ever, used recipes. Especially ones which call for scores of ingredients. When I come across those, my eyes glaze over - I'd just as soon read Moby Dick. The now defunct Gourmet used to have a monthly feature called Five Ingredients, now available in book form. Whoever came up with that brilliant stroke is a cook after my own heart. A composition of a few parts creates transparency, like a string quintet.
The art and science of a pastry chef, however, is something else altogether different; which is why desserts are not my strong suit. Aside from the occasional fresh fruit galette, I leave the sweet stuff to the experts. Savory fare is forgiving and allows for a greater margin of error – plus, cooking without a net elevates it to the challenge of a puzzle and the excitement of sport.
Along the way I'll provide TIPs (Techniques, Investments, Processes). Should you have questions, feel free to communicate them via the comment option at the bottom of each entry. Here's your first TIP: Buy yourself the largest cutting board your counter can accommodate. If you can afford it, buy those gorgeous bamboo ones, they're sustainable. When in use, secure it on the counter by placing a damp dish towel beneath. Another TIP: don't be afraid to use your hands, they are the original kitchen tool. When possible, buy local, organic ingredients. In addition, I'll try to highlight energy-conserving TIPs by highlighting them boldly.
Delicata Squash “Canoes” with a Smashed, Yukon Gold Potato and Ancho-Onion-Carrot Filling
With an sharp 8-inch chef's knife, cut the Delicata squash(es) length-wise. Scoop out the seeds with a medium-sized spoon. Place in roasting pan, skin side down. Pour about a tablespoon of Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO) into hollow cavity. With your fingers, coat all fleshy surfaces. Season with Salt and Pepper. Place in a 400 degree oven. No need to pre-heat. When squash is not quite fork tender, turn off oven leaving squash inside. It will continue cooking with residual heat.
While the squash is cooking:
Throw a bunch of Yukon Gold potatoes into a heavy-bottomed pot. Leave potatoes whole and unpeeled. Fill pot with salted water just covering potatoes. Put a lid on it, bring to a boil - then lower heat to a steady simmer. When you can almost squish the potatoes to their core, turn off heat. As with the squash, they'll continue to approach doneness in the hot water. Leave the lid on.
Meanwhile:
Finely-dice an onion or two, depending on how many squashes you have. Do the same with some large carrots. Since the onions will relax and reduce in apparent quantity, you'll want to end up with a one-to-one ratio. (See, math matters!) Saute the onions first, giving them a head-start, then add the carrots. Use a generous amount of EVOO. Season with salt, pepper and a liberal amount of Ancho chile powder, enough to nicely color the ingredients. I use a fry/flash steam method when sauteing as a way to hasten cooking times. Periodically add water, capturing the consequent steam with a slightly-ajar glass lid. Glass is a window to your work. When steam has dissipated, uncover, and redistribute ingredients so they cook evenly. Add more EVOO. Learn how to flip your saute pan the way pros do it. TIP: youTube. George Morrone of Aqua chastised line cooks who so much as thought of using a spoon. The ancho-onion-carrot mixture is done when carrots are between firm and tender. Think of this kind of component as a concentrate – it boosts, nay, skyrockets the flavor of a dish. Don't be shy with EVOO. It is the cornerstone of the Mediterranean diet which in its purest form is one of the healthiest diets on the planet. Paula Dean has her butter. I have my EVOO.
Assembling Canoes:
Remove roasting pan from oven so squash can cool slightly. Place potatoes and ancho-onion-carrot mixture in large bowl. Add hemp seed meal (good source of protein) and unsweetened hemp milk (creaminess). Smash mixture with a large blunt wood spoon, stirring up from the bottom. Adjust seasoning. Fill Delicata squash canoes with potato mixture, mounding high. Height is good.
About 20 minutes before serving, turn the oven back on (400 degrees). Place roasting pan with assembled squash canoes back into oven until heated through.
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I prepared the above vegan dish using ingredients I had on-hand. Deciding what to do with those five or so ingredients is the puzzle. Think Jeopardy! Preparing the dish given the boundaries of time and the equipment available? That's the sport! The SLR staff piled aboard Priscilla at about 8 o'clock. It had been raining for 36 hours and spirits needed lifting. The autumnal look and ensuing aroma of this one-dish meal was so reminiscent of a Thanksgiving feast, it drew a bittersweet tear for the loss of still another summer.
Oh, well.
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